Sure, everybody wants to visit Hawaiʻi at least once in their lifetime, right? It’s paradise. Literally. Beautiful beaches, friendly locals, grindz (food) like you’ve never experienced, and aloha - the Hawaiian spirit that welcomes you everywhere you go.
Very few tourists, however, make it to the West Side of the Island of Oʻahu. Why?
Eh, Brah, the Waiʻanae Coast has a reputation for being a bit rough around the edges. However, when you go, you‘ll find that Waiʻanae offers some of the most delightful scenery and adventures you’ll take in on your Hawaiian vacation. And you’ll definitely meet more native Hawaiians than you’ll find anywhere else on the island. Wai’anae is the largest native Hawaiian community in the world!
This Definitely Isn’t Waikiki
The “West Side” is nothing like what you see in travel magazines or brochures… thank goodness!
As Hawai’i’s first and most famous tourist destination, Waikiki is overrun with visitors from all over the world who’ve been sold on the idea they’re in the real Hawai’i. Yes, there are palm trees, beaches and surfers there. But sadly, with skyscraping hotels and high-rise condominiums on every corner – and people jamming the sidewalks from dawn ‘til dusk – overpriced Waikiki has become so commercialized… and SO crowded. It’s like the Las Vegas Strip with a coastline, sans the casinos. (FYI: gambling is illegal in Hawai’i.)
Wai’anae, on the West Side of the island, is wilder, rougher, and generally drier than Waikiki… and the rest of the island. Instead of tall buildings, you get rugged mountains changing from vibrant green to deep brown, according to the season and amount of rainfall that has fallen. These and other landmarks mark your journey away from the big city of Honolulu
Heading north on Farrington Highway - Waiʻanae’s main artery - ocean views out your driver’s side window guide you all the way to the northernmost point of the island. These seven stops along the way make a trip to the West Side one of the most adventurous and scenic any tourist (or local) could ever enjoy!
1. Koʻolina - a Hawaiian Resort Vacation
Koʻolina means “place of joy” in Hawaiian. If you can’t leave the tourist in you behind and are seeking manmade amenities, stay at Koʻolina. This newer resort on the West Side is pricey, but “all-inclusive” when it comes to enjoying Hawaiian hospitality. Enclosed within a lush border are hotels, restaurants, bars, spas and a golf course, all on-site. The well-manicured lawns, burgeoning blooms, wistful waterfalls and other landscaping accents are a feast for the eyes. Just driving around the property is a treat.
Don’t forget the beach! Koʻolina’s four enticing lagoons allow you to peaceably soak up the sun and salt air, until you’re ready to saunter home for a quick snooze and a refreshing Mai Tai before enjoying your night. Take a starlit evening stroll from your hotel room to your choice of dining venues. And don’t you dare miss a night at Paradise Cove for a real Hawaiian lūʻau. You’ll be sitting on the edge of your seat watching the graceful hula and fire dancers, as the sounds of waves crashing nearby soothe your soul.
2. Nānākuli Beach Park (“Zablan”)
Wai’anae is divided into nine ahupua’a (districts or subdivisions) that were established long before European settlers arrived. Nānākuli is the first of these ahupua’a on your drive north along the western coast of O’ahu.
Named after a local magistrate that settled nearby, Zablan – pronounced “subland” by locals – and Nānākuli Beach Park offer kids ages 2 to 92 plenty of family fun. Barbecues and tents pop-up throughout the day, so get there early on weekends.
Zablan allows you to experience a treasure-trove of adventures alongside the pros (local residents), including:
exploring the mermaid caves;
bathing in tide pools;
“cliff-diving” for amateurs: jumping off a large rock that hangs about 10 feet over the ocean;
swimming in cool, clear water;
trying out your boogie board;
taking a refreshing Hawaiian shower – the beach shower at the park is reported to have some of the best water pressure on the island!
Remember, when you’re at any beach in Hawai’i, never turn your back on the ocean, and be sure to wear proper footwear when climbing on rocks. When in doubt about where you should go, ask a local.
3. Puʻu O Hulu (Pink Pillbox) Hike
Puʻu O Hulu is a landmark that rises up from the middle of Wai’anae. The legend goes that Hulu, a chief, was in love with a woman named Maʻiliiʻli. She had an identical twin sister. Mo’o the lizard god turned the three into mountains, so that Hulu could gaze upon the twins forever. It is unknown whether he has trouble deciding between the two or simply can’t tell them apart.
The mountain served as a lookout point for the U.S. Military during and after World War II. Several bunkers, called “pillboxes,” dot the top and sides of the mountain and were previously connected by tunnels. The highest pillbox has been painted pink. Access to the pillboxes is easy, and hikers can climb upon them, meditate, pray thanks for being in such a beautiful place, or simply enjoy the views.
A short hike (1.7 miles), Puʻu O Hulu will normally take you between 30 minutes to an hour, depending on ability and number of breaks. There are scenic stops along the way to pose for a photo by a tree that grows from the side of the mountain, drink water, or take some deep breaths. You’ll be amazed by the 360-degree views at the top, so it’s well worth the trip to get there! Be sure to wear good hiking shoes, because the trail can be slippery.
4. Pokaʻi Bay
Pokaʻi Bay is a true gem located adjacent to downtown Wai’anae. Because of its calm, friendly waters, it is a welcome place to enjoy all kinds of activities, including paddling, surfing, swimming and jogging.
Like most beach parks in Hawaiʻi, the terrain is a mix of sand, rocks and grassy lawns. Pokaʻi Bay also has a playground and an ancient heʻau, or temple. Be sure to show respect when treading on any sacred ground.
Here the waves are gentle and safe. You may spot wildlife, including dolphins, but most often you may see a sea turtle or monk seal paddling nearby. Be sure to keep your distance! It is illegal to get within 10 feet of a sea turtle and 50 feet of a monk seal.
Next to Pokaʻi Bay is Lualualei Beach Park, which has several inlets where you can wade and bathe with your family. Running along Lualualei is a flat, rocky ledge, which is fun to walk upon while enjoying the views.
Hungry? Walk to Beachhouse 604, which sits right on the ocean. This restaurant is called “Rest Camp” by locals, because it is the hub of the old Army Rest Camp where military personnel can still rent cabins along the beach.
Sunset views from the Beachhouse are amazing. Most nights beginning at 6 p.m., you can hear live music performed by Hawaiian artists. Try the Kalua (pig) Nachos with one of the Beachhouse’s famous cocktails, served in a “fishbowl”-style glass and triple strong! Pokaʻi Bay spreads out before you, and you can whale-watch, spot a sea turtle, or check out surfers bouncing through the waves.
Pokaʻi Bay is a one-of-a-kind destination that has it all, and a day spent here will not disappoint.
5. Mākaha Beach
Though many are unaware, one of the most famous beaches in Hawaiʻi is Mākaha. Several surfing movies filmed in the sixties were shot on Mākaha, and some of Hawaiʻi’s greatest surfers still brave the waves here.
Mākaha is a long stretch of beach, and there is plenty of spectating to be had, in addition to enjoying the sun and sand. Locals have tailgate parties to watch surfers, paddlers and boarders compete against each other. The fun begins in the a.m and can go all day and all night. On New Year’s Eve, many locals usher out the old by jumping into the ocean at Mākaha Beach and welcoming the New Year on the back of a gnarly one.
6. Makua Cave & Beach
Hidden at the northern end of Farrington Highway, Makua Cave is sacred to Hawaiians and should be visited with care. It is reported to be haunted, and like many other locales on the West Side, has its own legend. Called “Kaneana” or “Cave of Kane,” after the god of creation, Makua Cave is home to Nanaue, son of the King of Sharks. Nanaue tricks humans by disguising himself as a man, so he can eat them.
Look for the etched stone sign on the left side of the highway and park in the dirt lot. The cave is across the street, its entrance hidden behind the metal highway barriers. Again, respect is key anywhere you venture in Hawaiʻi. Do not disturb candles, leis, foods, or other items in the cave that have been left for the gods. Do not leave trash, and don’t pick up any rocks.
Makua Beach is a gorgeous, secluded beach just down the highway, towards “Town” (Honolulu). Parking is on the ocean side of the highway. Makua Beach is a great place to spend the day, and it has its own jumping-off rock and tidepools. Also called “Pray for Sets” (a nickname that has evolved into “Pray for Sex”), its name comes from boarders who hope to get a good “set” of waves.
Visitors can also take a beach bluff walk, strolling south on the higher sandy ridge that overlooks the beach. Winds and wild grasses blow, and the views are gorgeous. Once you hit the end, turn around and walk along the rocky escarpment that is pounded by waves. Within dried rocky pools, you can find sea salt that has formed.
7. Kaʻena Point
If you’re looking for nature, solitude and a long (2.7 miles one way) peaceful hike, check out Kaʻena Point. It is on the northern tip of the island and at the end of the road (Farrington Highway). You can walk from the parking lot to the other side of the island, ending up on the North Shore, in anywhere from 1 to 3 hours, depending on your pace.
The easy trail leads you through beautiful coastal surroundings to an enclosure that protects the last sand dune habitat on the island. Many native Hawaiian plants and several species of large sea birds can be found in the habitat. The hike is usually hot and windy, so start early and bring plenty of water.
You can start on the other side of the island as well, but when you’re getting to know the Waiʻanae Coast better, this is where you’ll end up.
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